How to reseal an RV roof
A reseal is mostly prep. These steps follow the surface-prep and cure guidance on the manufacturers' own product pages. Your product label always wins.
Safety first. Not every RV roof is designed to be walked on. Check your owner's manual before you climb up, use a proper ladder, and work with a helper. Lap sealants are solvent-based; Dicor's label calls for fresh air and warns against heat, sparks and flame.
What you'll need
- The right sealant for your roof (see by roof type): self-leveling lap sealant for flat joints, non-sag for vertical edges.
- Seam tape such as EternaBond RoofSeal for long seams or tears.
- A standard caulking gun, plastic scraper, brushes and clean rags.
- A cleaner suitable for your roof membrane (check your roof maker's guidance).
- Painter's tape for neat edges.
Step by step
- Inspect. Walk (or view) the whole roof. Mark cracked, lifted or missing sealant around vents, skylights, the A/C shroud, antenna, ladder mounts, edges and seams.
- Clean. Dicor says to clean all dirt, loose paint, rust, oil and grease, and let the surface dry before applying. Tough Tech's coating instructions call for power-washing at 600–1,000 psi before a full recoat; for spot work, scrub by hand.
- Remove failed sealant. Scrape off loose, cracked or peeling material. If you find silicone, remove it; several makers say their products won't bond over silicone.
- Check the weather. EternaBond says to apply between 40°F and 150°F, with EternaPrime below 40°F. Dicor says to warm tubes to room temperature in cold weather.
- Tape long seams. For seams and tears, apply seam tape to a clean, dry surface and roll it down firmly. EternaBond says proper cleaning and pressure-rolling are key.
- Bead the lap sealant. Use self-leveling sealant on flat edges, vents and screw heads, and non-sag on vertical edges and termination rails. Cover the full joint and any screw heads.
- Let it cure. Dicor's guide at 50–70°F: skins in about 5 minutes, waterproof in about 4 hours, 80% cured at 48 hours, fully cured at 30 days.
- Re-check. Look again after the first rain or the first trip, then on a regular schedule.
Spot reseal or full roof coating?
If the membrane itself is chalky, cracked or worn across the roof, a spot reseal won't fix that. A roll-on coating such as Tough Roof RV (maker lists EPDM, TPO, fiberglass, metal, aluminum and Alpha rubber; about 50 sq ft per gallon, two coats) is a different job. When in doubt, get a roof inspection from an RV service center.
Planning a trip after the reseal?
If you're getting the rig ready for the road, an RV-specific trip planner can help you route around low clearances. See RV LIFE's trip planner.